The dumb trigger was pulled today and my brains lay spattered upon the proverbial wall of thought
I watch the grey matter slide and roll...almost walk vertically down like inch worms
The red stuff used to feed my mind with oxygen and sugar
Now drips
Separated from its duty
I'll drink alcohol today in hope of its recovery so that I may join the others
It's hard when you don't wish to think, share or participate
Maybe I'll play a song or write something down on a piece of paper
Yeah...and put it in my pocket so that I may read it later and wonder what I meant
I'll burn it like my memory
Forget it and write something new
I like new
...but I miss the old
Friday, January 29, 2016
Saturday, January 2, 2016
Moonlight Mile, a Tashiba 31 Project
I had the unpleasant chore of hauling out Moonlight Mile to replace the PSS shaft seal, cutlass bearing, drive shaft and coupling. I will share my discoveries and mistakes with you as I do not wish this upon my worst enemy...well maybe, but that's beside the point. Keep in mind as I share my story that there was a enough room for a squirrel to work in my engine compartment.
Step one: Remove shaft coupling from transmission flange and remove old PSS.
Step two: Pull shaft aft only to realize you have a double tapered shaft and not enough room to access retaining bolt and mount a gear puller to remove the coupling from shaft...so just get your angle grinder with a cutting wheel and cut the fucker off. Don't waste time thinking about it. There is no other way just cut it. You'll probably have to cut the old retaining ring for the shaft seal off as well (mine was 15 years old). IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not use the cutting wheel to cut off the rubber boot as you will cut into the stainless stern tube. Use a sharp knife, Xacto or razor blade.
Step three: Remove prop. You will remove the cotter pin and two prop nuts only to realize your prop not going to come off even with a prop puller. Don't think about it just go get a oxy/acetylene set, borrow one if you have to.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It must be oxy/acetylene gas, not propane. You want to heat it up fast so that the bronze metal of the prop heats and expands before the stainless metal of the shaft. Propane is not hot enough
You are going to use a rosebud tip, install your prop puller or gear puller on your prop and load it up. IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure you have the prop nut installed on the end of the shaft, lightly threaded as to avoid the prop flying off the end.
Now fire up your torch making sure you protect the fiberglass shaft log with wet rags and apply heat to the bronze prop, not the shaft. Within 30 sec or less the prop will pop violently off of the taper, hence the need for the prop nut being in place.
Step four: Remove shaft. Order a new shaft with a fitted coupling to match from these guys http://www.marinehardware.com/. My shaft with coupling was 11/4" diameter and 40 1/2" long including coupling (total length). Marine hardware has a worksheet and are more than helpful over the phone. Just take careful measurements and make sure you have a matching coupling for your transmission. Mine was a Yanmar 3GM30 Kazaki KM3 P. The whole thing will run you about $1200.
Step five: Order a PSS shaft seal for a 11/4" shaft and 1 7/8"-2" stern tube, PSS part # 02-114-200. Follow their instructions for installation.
Step six: Remove cutlass bearing first by carefully loosening the two set screws in the shaft log. One is at 10 O'Clock the other at 2 O'Clock. It may require you to cut through the brass sleeve with a hack saw carefully as to not cut into the fiberglass log. You can use a long, wooden dowel that can act as a handle with the hack saw blade set in as a stopper. It can take some coaxing, vice grips, screw driver, hammer and patience to remove it. Once the brass sleeve is cut; get a screwdriver head between the sleeve and log then bend it up to get a pair of vice grips on an edge then twist and pull.
Step seven: Install new bearing.
End result:
I also ordered a new prop from http://www.olympicpropeller.com/and have my old one for a back up. These guys were very helpful and timely. The prop is a 17" right handed 10 pitch with a SAE bore made by Hung Shen. Costs about $470.
While I had the boat out I bottom painted, varnished, did the lettering, replaced zincs and replaced all hoses below the waterline (about a 60ft worth).
Keep in mind that your Tashiba 31 may have a different shaft than mine, so be careful and remove everything first and take careful measurements before you order any new parts. Take your time and plan on spending three times as much time and money on the project...but hopefully the info I shared will reduce that for you by half.
Step one: Remove shaft coupling from transmission flange and remove old PSS.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It must be oxy/acetylene gas, not propane. You want to heat it up fast so that the bronze metal of the prop heats and expands before the stainless metal of the shaft. Propane is not hot enough
You are going to use a rosebud tip, install your prop puller or gear puller on your prop and load it up. IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure you have the prop nut installed on the end of the shaft, lightly threaded as to avoid the prop flying off the end.
Now fire up your torch making sure you protect the fiberglass shaft log with wet rags and apply heat to the bronze prop, not the shaft. Within 30 sec or less the prop will pop violently off of the taper, hence the need for the prop nut being in place.
Step four: Remove shaft. Order a new shaft with a fitted coupling to match from these guys http://www.marinehardware.com/. My shaft with coupling was 11/4" diameter and 40 1/2" long including coupling (total length). Marine hardware has a worksheet and are more than helpful over the phone. Just take careful measurements and make sure you have a matching coupling for your transmission. Mine was a Yanmar 3GM30 Kazaki KM3 P. The whole thing will run you about $1200.
Step five: Order a PSS shaft seal for a 11/4" shaft and 1 7/8"-2" stern tube, PSS part # 02-114-200. Follow their instructions for installation.
Step six: Remove cutlass bearing first by carefully loosening the two set screws in the shaft log. One is at 10 O'Clock the other at 2 O'Clock. It may require you to cut through the brass sleeve with a hack saw carefully as to not cut into the fiberglass log. You can use a long, wooden dowel that can act as a handle with the hack saw blade set in as a stopper. It can take some coaxing, vice grips, screw driver, hammer and patience to remove it. Once the brass sleeve is cut; get a screwdriver head between the sleeve and log then bend it up to get a pair of vice grips on an edge then twist and pull.
While I had the boat out I bottom painted, varnished, did the lettering, replaced zincs and replaced all hoses below the waterline (about a 60ft worth).
Keep in mind that your Tashiba 31 may have a different shaft than mine, so be careful and remove everything first and take careful measurements before you order any new parts. Take your time and plan on spending three times as much time and money on the project...but hopefully the info I shared will reduce that for you by half.
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